How Derinkuyu and Kaymakli compare, their history, what to see, tickets, hours, and tips for visiting the ancient tunnels.
Beneath the valleys and fairy chimneys, Cappadocia hides something just as remarkable: entire cities carved deep underground. The Cappadocia underground cities sheltered thousands of people in times of danger, going down many levels with ventilation shafts, wells, kitchens, stables and chapels. This guide explains what they are, who built them, compares the two main ones, and shows how to fit them into a trip built around the morning balloon flight.
What are the Cappadocia underground cities?
The soft volcanic rock that makes the valleys so easy to carve also made it possible to dig downward. Over centuries, communities cut multi-level cities into the ground, used as refuges from raids and invasions. Families could live below for weeks, sealing the entrances with huge round stone doors and breathing through deep ventilation shafts. Dozens of these sites are known across the region, but two are open and famous: Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı.
A brief history: who built them and why
The cities grew over a very long time. The soft tuff was first hollowed out in antiquity, then expanded and deepened over later centuries, especially as a refuge during periods of invasion and raids. Early Christian communities used and enlarged them to hide from persecution, adding chapels and living quarters. The genius is in the engineering: deep ventilation shafts kept the air fresh far below ground, wells provided water without surfacing, and the rolling stone doors could seal a level from the inside against anyone trying to get in.
Derinkuyu: the deepest
Derinkuyu is the deepest underground city open to visitors, descending many levels far below the surface. It could shelter thousands of people along with their livestock, and includes a large ventilation shaft, a network of tunnels, and a room thought to have served as a chapel or school. The descent is steep and the passages narrow, which is part of what makes it so impressive once you are down there.
Kaymaklı: the widest
Kaymaklı is broader rather than deeper, spreading out across wide low levels connected by sloping tunnels. It is generally an easier visit than Derinkuyu, with shorter descents, which makes it a good choice if steep stairs or tight spaces are a concern. The two cities are only a short drive apart and were long thought to be linked by a tunnel several kilometres long.
Derinkuyu vs Kaymaklı: which to visit
| City | Character | Best for |
|---|
| Derinkuyu | Deepest, dramatic descent | The full underground experience |
| Kaymaklı | Widest, easier levels | Less steep, tighter on time, families |
If you only have time for one, choose Derinkuyu for depth and drama, or Kaymaklı if you prefer an easier walk. Both can feel tight and warm, so they are not ideal if you are strongly claustrophobic.
Other underground sites worth knowing
Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı are the headline cities, but they are not the only ones. Smaller sites such as Özkonak and Mazı see far fewer visitors and give a quieter, rawer sense of the underground world, though they have fewer facilities. Many of the cave dwellings and rock-cut churches across the valleys connect to the same tradition of living inside the rock, so the underground story runs through the whole region, not just the two famous cities.
How to visit the underground cities
The easiest way is a guided day tour, since the cities sit south of Göreme and a guide brings the history to life that you would otherwise miss. A Cappadocia Green Tour combines an underground city with the green Ihlara canyon and the Selime monastery in one day, while a Red and Underground mix tour pairs a city with the northern valleys. For a fuller southern route, the Deluxe Green Tour adds more time at Selime and Ihlara.
Tickets, timing and combining sites
Both cities have a standard entrance ticket, and the regional museum pass can cover them along with other sights if you plan to see several over a few days. Mornings and late afternoons are quieter than the midday tour rush, when groups fill the narrowest passages and the air gets warm. A visit to a single city takes under an hour, which is exactly why it pairs so well with the Ihlara canyon or the valleys on the same trip rather than standing alone. If you are short on time, a half-day tour that combines one underground city with a couple of valley stops gives you the most for the drive south, and saves you working out the logistics yourself.
Tips for visiting
Wear flat, grippy shoes for the smooth, worn steps, and bring a light layer, since it stays cool below ground year-round. The passages are low and narrow in places, so move slowly and follow the one-way routes where they exist. Go earlier in the day to avoid the busiest crowds in the tightest sections. The visit itself is not long, which is why pairing it with the Ihlara canyon or the valleys makes the best use of the day.
Fitting it into a balloon trip
The underground cities are a perfect afternoon or full-day activity after a dawn balloon flight, since you are already up early and the cities are cool when the afternoon warms up. A good rhythm is to fly at sunrise, rest, then head underground or out to Ihlara. If you have not booked your flight yet, the classic sunrise balloon tour and the quieter Soğanlı Valley flight or Ihlara Valley flight all pair naturally with a southern day underground.
Frequently asked questions
Which underground city is best? Derinkuyu for depth and drama, Kaymaklı for an easier, wider visit. Both are worth it; pick based on how you feel about steep, narrow descents.
Are the underground cities suitable for everyone? Mostly, but the passages are tight and warm, so they can be uncomfortable if you are strongly claustrophobic or have limited mobility. Kaymaklı is the easier of the two.
Do I need a guide? You can enter independently, but a guided tour adds the history and context that make the visit meaningful, and handles the drive from Göreme.
